The Geechee Gullah Ring Shouters perform during the opening ceremony of the new Wanderer Memory Trail on Jekyll Island in November.

The sands of time have layered one historical moment on top of another throughout the centuries here in the Golden Isles. Prehistoric peoples gathered for annual celebrations on the south end of St. Simons Island. The first known audio recording in American history – that of the song, “Kumbaya” – was reportedly recorded not that far from Darien. Even the first trans-Atlantic phone call was received by AT&T’s president Theodore Vall at his summer home on Jekyll Island.

We highlight three locations in the Isles where history is being unearthed for future generations to connect with the past.

Can You Dig It?  

By: Bethany Leggett

Last summer, Fort Frederica National Monument bustled with activity as people marched across the grassy acres alongside the Frederica River on St. Simons Island.  

Fort Frederica.

Echoing the liveliness of centuries before — when the town and fort were constructed as a British military outpost in 1736 — the modern-day inhabitants weren’t soldiers but archaeologists and volunteers, reaching back in time with each shovel of dirt. From seven year olds to 70 year olds, all ages dug trenches, cataloged finds, and discovered shards of history buried deep below the ground as the fort underwent the first major excavation in 40 years.

“The last time we did any work here was in the 1970s with Dr. Nick Honerkamp [who conducted his doctoral research at Fort Frederica]. He’s retiring this year, so we brought him back to bookend it,” says Michael Seibert, Fort Frederica’s integrated resource manager.

They came from near and far. Honerkamp and his students from the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga were joined by members of the Southeast Archeological Center, the National Park Service’s archaeology unit, during the two-week experience. A student from the University of South Florida came up, and others from Georgia Southern attended. Amateur archaeologists from the Carolinas also came down for three days. In total, there were 20 archaeologists on site, and by the end of the excavation, around 180 volunteers had contributed, too.

“We have a national park in our backyard here on the island. There’s not many places that can say that … and there’s not that many opportunities for you to get your hands in the dirt in a federal archaeological site. Typically, if you do this on your own, you would go to jail for five years,” Seibert says with a laugh.

And get their hands dirty, they did. Screening, taking photographs, drawing maps of findings — after a short informational rundown, anyone visiting the fort during the excavation time had the chance to be their own version of Indiana Jones. “You watch on TV, and you see people moving with brushes and toothpicks; and that’s an aspect of it. There’s a lot of dirt moving. There’s a lot of shovel work. There’s a lot of trowel work. It’s hot. It’s buggy. But it’s rewarding. Hopefully, they saw, too, the importance,” Seibert says.

Even the kids got in on the archaeological action. Two camps — one offered for fourth- through sixth-graders and another for eighth-graders — took place, too. The camp for the 9- to 12-year-olds was similar to those which Glynn County Schools instructor Ellen Provenzano taught from 1994 to 2012 at the fort. She returned last year for the camp, where the children learned how to handle real artifacts under the watchful gaze of volunteers and staff. “So they are digging up real artifacts, but in a controlled setting, to learn all the correct things,” Seibert says.

The older kids in the second camp got to work side-by-side Seibert and the staff; and they “actually got to do something that is probably pretty rare, in the park service at least. I took them into the park, and I said, ‘You are going to dig a hole here, and you are going to do all the work,’” he says. “They laid out the unit, they excavated. They took all the notes and all the photographs, strained it, and bagged it.”

The odds of finding something underneath the ground were in the eighth-graders favor. The same anomaly had popped up on data sets from ground penetrating radar, conductivity, and magnetometer readings. But what could it be?

A trove of discoveries — from a large cooking pot to buckle fragments, food waste, bits of bone, and even a well-preserved peach pit — were discovered as the dirt was carefully moved away. “We have some post-colonial stuff, which we should; but a lot of this stuff that they were finding at the right level was colonial period,” Seibert says. “It’s in this town lot, which we know belonged to at least one individual who leased it out to some soldiers at some point in time. So this is probably related to soldiers living in huts or temporary housing in that area because it is so close to the barracks,” he says.

The excavations were a special experience for Seibert to expose the younger generation to the field of archaeology. For instance, there was one young girl from Atlanta who had visited the fort while on vacation with her mother in April. She had a passion for archaeology and wanted to know more about the fort. Seibert happened to meet her at the visitors center and told her about the camps planned that summer. While she couldn’t attend a week-long camp, the girl did get her first exposure to archaeology when she returned to St. Simons for her birthday, which occurred during the dig. “She came out and spent the entire day excavating with me … and she actually came back on Sunday afternoon to dig some more. So, I thought this was cool. She helped dig and map all kinds of stuff,” Seibert says before pausing to reflect on passing along the passion for discovering ancient cultures. “Hopefully, you get one, you know.”

Seibert, who became the first archaeologist on Fort Frederica’s staff since the late 1940s, has been busy since his arrival at the St. Simons national park in October 2016, and the two-week excavation was the culmination of more than a year of work. In 2017, the park had ground-penetrating radar completed around the town site, with the help of funding awarded through Seibert’s proposals.

“We surveyed a lot of the town using geophysical techniques, which helped us see what was potentially under the ground and guide future research,” Seibert says. This led to a “surgical approach,” where small units could be opened above anomalies discovered in the data sets rather than digging long trenches and hoping for the best, as had been done more than a half a century ago, he explains.

Students gather around an excavated site at Fort Frederica this summer.

This targeted approach of using radar not only saves time but money, too. “Keeping the artifacts, that’s a lifelong process. You could never get rid of them. The more you dig up, the more money you need to have. So if you take a surgical approach, you can get better answers without spending all of your funds,” he says.

Interested by what the data sets were showing, Seibert first did a smaller excavation unit with the help of his family on weekends. “What we are looking for are things not in alignment in the town site … maybe they are in the middle of an alley, or they are tilted sideways or something like that. They don’t jive with the current overall understanding; we want to look at those to see what they are,” Seibert says.

Interested by what the data sets were showing, Seibert first did a smaller excavation unit with the help of his family on weekends. “What we are looking for are things not in alignment in the town site … maybe they are in the middle of an alley, or they are tilted sideways or something like that. They don’t jive with the current overall understanding; we want to look at those to see what they are,” Seibert says.

While the family worked under the tent at the fort, people kept stopping by to ask what was going on. “During that one-week dig, we talked to about 500 people and we found a bunch of stuff. So, clearly there’s really cool things happening here, and there is clearly interest,” he says.

With more to discover, Seibert decided to get the ball rolling on a larger excavation that would incorporate the community’s involvement. Many locals and visitors got involved by just visiting the fort during the excavation time in June. An informational tent was set up where participants were trained on the basics of preservation standards. “We estimate that we talked to more than 2,000 people in 11 days. It’s a peak season, right around the beginning of summer. All of these people here are just visitors that happened to come for the day. We had extra gloves and stuff, if you wanted to come out and spend a couple of hours,” Seibert explains of the 180 people who ended up lending a hand.

“When you dig something up, I like to tell them, ‘You are probably the first person to touch that since it was lost, which could be 200 to 2,000 years old if you go back to prehistoric times.’ That’s a really cool concept … to be the first person to touch this since the last person did,” he says.

Friends of Fort Frederica Board Members Bill Jones, left, Amy Dry, Clint Purser, Lucy Thomas, and park archaeologist Michael Seibert, gather before the fort in November

The colonial period is a well-documented period of time on the island. In fact, the staff are waiting on a report to see if they can conclude the location of General Oglethorpe’s house site. That being said, evidence of human habitation before and after the 18th Century isn’t as well-known. “I feel like we don’t know everything about 1736 to 1758, but we probably know a lot more about those 22 years than we do about the 150 years after or any other times before that. So that’s why we are trying to focus on things outside the norm,” he explains.

Further excavation findings from the summer included items from a plantation-era warehouse, and a shell pit more than six feet deep that has been radio carbon dated between 500 and 900 AD. “That’s a pretty long range, but you can say, this is prehistoric. And the interesting thing is that this was under a historic road, which is pretty cool,” Seibert says. “I think the prehistoric stuff … helps to show that once a good place to live, always a good place to live. You know, we aren’t the first people here. We won’t be the last.”

Artifacts and documents from the summer’s dig are now on display at the visitor center at the park, providing an updated exhibit inside the center that could be rotated to include future findings, too.

And there are plans to bring back the summer camp this year, too, with a little help from some friends — the Friends of Fort Frederica, that is. The nonprofit group, formed in November 2017, branched out from the Fort Frederica Association that got its start from Howard Coffin in 1941. Back then, the association was instrumental in obtaining the additional 80 acres around the site that was required by the National Park Service to designate Fort Frederica as a national monument.

Michael Seibert, archaeologist at Fort Frederica National Monument, looks at radar scans during the dig last summer.

While the historic association continues to support the fort through revenue-producing concessions, such as the bookstore and drink machines, the newly formed Friends group is interested on expanding their assistance. As such, fundraising, community engagement, capital campaigns, monthly events, and more are planned, says Lucy Thomas, one of the founding members of the Friends of Fort Frederica. Other founding members include Bill Jones, Valerie Hepburn, Albert Fendig, Millie Wilcox, and Dewey Benefield.

For Thomas, getting the community involved in the first major excavation in recent history was critical. “The amount of valuable research uncovered was significant. However, the staff’s idea to open the unearthing of history to the public was ingenious,” she says. “The outpouring of volunteers from far and wide speaks for itself. The public clearly understands the significance and fascination of the history here at the fort, and they are interested in being a part the research, preservation, and promotion of Fort Frederica.”

Working with the National Park Service staff — Seibert along with Superintendent Gary Ingram; Manager Steve Theus; and Supervisory Facility Operations Specialist Chad Thomas — has been a thrill, Thomas says. “They are enthusiastic about making the fort a popular destination for visitors to our community as well as for the locals,” she says.

When the Friends turned to the staff and asked what they would like to have funded first, it was the educational camps for the kids that topped the list. “It is a testament to the staff at Fort Frederica that their first request was for educational programs for the kids. The camps were a huge success, and we have already received their request to sponsor the camps again this year,” Thomas says.

Thomas knows how captivating the national monument can be for children. After all, she grew up exploring the island’s historic treasure herself. “I have fond childhood memories of going to the fort with my parents: when the old orange trees lined Broad Street; when there were boxes by each ruin that had a recording of the people reenacting who lived in those ruins, including one scary guy at the moat who screamed ‘Halt, who goes there?!’,” she recalls. When she had kids of her own, the fort was an oft-visited location for picnics.

“Somewhere along the way, our visits were spaced further and further apart. I think a lot of locals have done the same. That is about to change. There are live programs every month at the fort, free to the public. There will be members-only events at the fort, and there will be community-sponsored events at the fort,” Thomas says.

Allied in their future efforts with the staff’s vision, the Friends hope to support further archaeological research on the grounds and exhibits to display the findings; fund benches and educational wayside markers on the 1.5-mile trail, in collaboration with the Colonial Dames, Brunswick Town Committee; and assist in the renovation of the Visitor’s Center. There are plans to build a pavilion to be used as an event venue and outdoor classroom by the Frederica River. There is also talk about building a floating dock for kayakers and canoers. Things may even get futuristic with virtual reality and 3D tours, where visitors could use an app on their phones to see where items had been discovered in the park as they walk underneath

the oaks.

Volunteers Francesca Trinca, left, and Mary Jo Davis sift through dirt in search for artifacts at an archaeological dig last summer at Fort Frederica National Monument.

“Together with the National Park Service team, we have big dreams for our fort,” Thomas says.

Seibert is onboard for future ways to incorporate all ages at Fort Frederica National Monument. Fort Frederica is unique for its history — and how little has actually been explored leaves more to do, he says. “It’s a pristine 18th Century site that’s been protected for most of its history. It was owned by one or two families, and there’s not been a lot of digging here,” Seibert says. “You don’t come across the opportunity to dig these things very often. I’m here, and now there is finally an opportunity to partner with these people. We don’t want to go excessive and dig everything up. But if there are questions we can answer, then we should answer them.”

Keep up with the latest happenings at Fort Frederica National Monument through the group’s Facebook page.

If you are interested in learning more about the Friends of Fort Frederica, go to fortfredericafriends.org.

Never To Forget

By Bethany Leggett

Visitors experience the new Wanderer Memory Trail and its interactive exhibits during the trail’s opening event in November on Jekyll Island. The trail tells the moving story of the enslaved Africans who, in 1858, survived a harrowing transatlantic voyage on the Wanderer, one of the last known slave ships to arrive in America

One hundred and sixty years ago, the typically serene banks of the Jekyll River on the southern side of the barrier island were disturbingly tumultuous, as hundreds men and women were smuggled ashore after having been captured and transported to America aboard the converted slave vessel, The Wanderer.

The Wanderer — which had been outfitted for the nefarious and illegal purpose despite the U.S. having outlawed the international slave trade half a century earlier — dropped anchor off Jekyll on November 28, 1858, with 400 enslaved aboard. Close to 100 had already perished, their bodies thrown overboard, during the horrendous Middle Passage from West Africa. Once the enslaved were ferried over to the mainland, they were sent to Savannah, Augusta, and ports in Florida and South Carolina to be sold.

Scattered across the South, the Africans formed a new hybrid culture known today as the Gullah Geechee, and their story — one of capture and survival — is detailed extensively in the newly dedicated Wanderer Memory Trail.

And it was along that trail, on a sunny Saturday this past November, where a crowd of all ages gathered together, holding candles as they explored the exhibit that sheds light on the legacy of those captured and their contributions to the communities in which they lived, as well as the lasting impact the survivors had on coastal Georgia and across the United States.

Designed by Curt Bowman of Artaventure, in Richmond, Virginia, a series of interactive exhibits along the path tell the true story of Umwalla, a young African boy brought to America aboard The Wanderer. Visitors will discover the pieces of Umwalla’s journey — from capture to freedom — as they are unveiled along the memory trail, which was produced and installed by Bowman and Jekyll Island Authority staff and volunteers.

By framing the story from a child’s perspective, the new memorial strikes a chord with many in attendance during the dedication, including Griffin Lotson, a seventh-generation Geechee. “What they are doing at the [Jekyll Island] Authority, they are bringing it from a child’s perspective, a young fella’s perspective. I think everyone loves family, everyone loves children,” he says of being able to connect with the story that unfolds throughout the trail.

Staff members from the Jekyll Island History Department and Jekyll Island Museum were able to enlighten attendees about the new exhibit during the November 17 dedication ceremony. Also present were the Geechee Gullah Ring Shouters, a troupe of performing artists who themselves are descendants of African slaves.

“This trail is an important and poignant reminder of the conditions these enslaved people suffered through during their journey to the United States, and the unthinkable hardships they faced after they got here,” says Dr. Deborah L. Mack, associate director of the Smithsonian Institution’s Office of Strategic Partnerships, National Museum of African

Raheem Isom, far left, Ocea Lee Barnes, and Patricia Bishop — all descendants of Ward Lee, a survivor of The Wanderer — examine the updated list of known Wanderer survivors with Dr. Deborah L. Mack, far right, an associate director in the Office of Strategic Partnerships at the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History and Culture. The list, stationed at the entrance to Jekyll Island’s new Wanderer Memory Trail, so far includes 67 ship survivors who have been identified by name.

American History & Culture. “It also references their path to freedom and it vividly reminds us that despite the circumstances of their arrival, the dynamic culture these brave people brought to America continues to influence Coastal Georgia and countless places beyond.”

The reimagined exhibit replaces a previous statue that had honored the survivors of The Wanderer. In 2008, the Jekyll Island Authority dedicated the first Wanderer Memorial, a large, metal sculpture honoring the ship’s survivors. When the sculpture began to deteriorate from exposure to the salt air and had to be removed, the opportunity to design a new type of memorial emerged. This led to the creation of the Wanderer Memory Trail, situated in the same general location as the original memorial, in the St. Andrews Picnic Area on Jekyll Island.

beyond.”

The reimagined exhibit replaces a previous statue that had honored the survivors of The Wanderer. In 2008, the Jekyll Island Authority dedicated the first Wanderer Memorial, a large, metal sculpture honoring the ship’s survivors. When the sculpture began to deteriorate from exposure to the salt air and had to be removed, the opportunity to design a new type of memorial emerged. This led to the creation of the Wanderer Memory Trail, situated in the same general location as the original memorial, in the St. Andrews Picnic Area on Jekyll Island.

“This updated, larger exhibit tells the story much-more comprehensively than before. In adding to that legacy, the Wanderer Memory Trail and the lessons it provides also enhance the educational experience that comes with a visit to Jekyll Island,” says Cheltsey Vann, Jekyll Island Museum Educator. “We are very proud of this new island landmark and anticipate that families and various groups most of all will want to add this trail — and the journey of Umwalla — to their Jekyll itineraries.”

The Wanderer Memory Trail has been a collaborative project by Jekyll Island Authority along with The Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History & Culture; the State of Georgia Historic Preservation Division; the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor Commission; the Old Slave Mart Museum in Charleston, South Carolina; and various descendants of known Wanderer survivors.

The trail is designed to be easily toured by all ages and group sizes. Though visits normally are self-guided, tours also can be included as part of special programming. For more information, visit jekyllisland.com.

Places in Peril: Glynn Landmark

Provided by Traci Clark

Needood Baptist Church

The Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation has released its 2019 list of 10 Places in Peril, and Needwood Baptist Church and School in Brunswick has been included in this year’s selections.

“This is the Trust’s 14th annual Places in Peril list,” says Mark C. McDonald, president of the trust. “We hope the list will continue to bring preservation solutions to Georgia’s imperiled historic resources by highlighting 10 representative sites.”

 The list is designed to raise awareness about Georgia’s history. Selections include buildings, structures, districts, archaeological sites, and cultural landscapes that are threatened by demolition, neglect, lack of maintenance, inappropriate development, or insensitive public policy.

Founded in 1866 by freed people raised in the Gullah Geechee tradition, Needwood Baptist Church is one of the oldest African-American churches in the state. The church building dates to the 1870s and likely sits on land that was once part of Needwood Plantation. The adjacent school, built in 1907, remained in use for the children of the congregation until the 1950s, when Georgia created equalization schools. The Needwood Baptist Church and School are threatened by their current state of disrepair, including failing roofs and increased water damage after recent storms, despite many families, descendants, and church members working to save them.

Other sites on the 2019 Places in Peril include: Huston House at Butler Plantation in Darien; Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace Garden in Savannah; Colquitt County Arts Center in Moultrie; Glennwanis Hotel in Glennville; Madison Theatre and Rhodes Center South, both in Atlanta; Springfield Log Cabin School in Union Point; Stark Mill Community Building in Hogansville; and The Cedars in Washington.

Through the list, the trust will encourage owners, individuals, organizations, and communities to employ proven preservation tools, financial resources, and partnerships in order to reuse, reinvest, and revitalize historic properties that are in peril.

Founded in 1973, the Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation is now one of the country’s leading statewide, nonprofit preservation organizations. The trust generates community revitalization by finding buyers for endangered properties acquired by its Revolving Fund and raises awareness of other endangered historic resources. The Trust offers a variety of educational programs for adults and children; provides technical assistance to property owners and historic communities; advocates for funding, tax incentives and other laws aiding preservation efforts; and manages two house museums in Atlanta and Macon.

History Lesson: The Wanderer

In 1808, Congress abolished the slave trade and even made it a crime punishable by death in 1820.

That didn’t stop Charles Lamar, a member of a prominent Savannah family, from approaching New York Yacht Club member William Corrie to purchase a luxury racing yacht, The Wanderer, and begin to repurpose the vessel for a run across the Atlantic.

The Wanderer departed Charleston on July 4, 1858, with plans to make it to the Congo River near present-day Angola. There, the crew continued to make rudimentary modifications in order to fit the 500 purchased slaves, who had been bought for the rate of $50 per person, aboard. Conditions were horrendous for the enslaved onboard and close to 100 died before the ship landed off the shores of Jekyll, which was owned by Henry DuBignon Jr., who had conspired with Corrie to unload the illegal cargo of slaves.

Despite the attempt at secrecy, news of The Wanderer’s brazen journey began to spread. The conspirators, including Lamar and Corrie, were charged with slave trading and piracy in a federal court in Savannah, only to have the jury acquit the men on all charges.

The Wanderer and the lack of punishment for those involved strained tensions between the South and the North further, when then-president James Buchanan proposed the federal government be more aggressive against the slave trade.

The following year, the Civil War broke out. The Wanderer was captured in 1861 in Key West by Union troops and used by the North for a variety of wartime purposes. After the war, the boat returned to private ownership before it sunk off the coast of Cuba in 1870.

Source:  Golden Isles:  The Magazine for Brunswick, St Simons Island. Jekyll, & Sea Island 

Swan Rubins has always marched to the bleat of a different drum. In fact, when she was asked what she wanted to be when she grew up, Rubins would often reply, “a goat.”

It’s easy to understand why. The furry farm dwellers are docile while offering hilarious high jinks as well. It’s a combination that has made goats the barnyard darlings — and spawned a million memes. 

“They are like stand-up comedians who also cuddle and give you milk. It is really hard to be sad or frown when you have a group of goats calling to you. Goats love attention and each has their own personality and diva-like demands,” Rubins says.

While a human-to-goat transformation never took shape, today she is just about as close as she could get to being a goat. She, along with her partner and fellow goat enthusiast, Jennifer Evitts, run a farm in Camden County called the Hairy Farmpit Girls.

There, they live and work with their cast of four-legged characters which includes Halle Dairy, Whoopi Goatberg, Goatie Hawn, and Michelle Obaaaama, among others. Rubins says that the brood has become family members rather than livestock.

“All of our animals have a retirement plan. They will happily live out all of their days on our farm, never to be eaten or sold just because they are no longer being milked,” Rubins says.

The Hairy Farmpit Girls are all about being animal and environmentally friendly as they craft their various products, which range from beard and lip balms to, of course, their popular goat milk soaps.

“We are completely against factory farming and only use goat milk from our happy herd of Nigerian dwarf and Lamancha goats. We are the only people in the area that are both the goat farmers and soap makers all-in-one. We use sustainable palm oil, and all of our products are vegetarian, with minimal and compostable packaging,” Rubins says.

“Our soap is different than most goat milk soaps in that we don’t use water in our soaps. All of our liquid comes from our goats’ milk, which makes for a luxuriously creamy bar of soap,” she adds. 

Of course, crafting that bar is no easy task. The process begins between 4:30 and 5 a.m. when Rubins wakes up — well before sunrise.

“It’s just when my natural, internal alarm clock goes off. Soap making continues through the day; another batch is made around lunchtime and another around dinnertime, or whenever I have the chance,” Rubins says.

The duo starts with melting essential oils, then mixing lye and goat milk. The lye, she adds, is something that is critical in all soap-making techniques, as it holds the concoction together.

“Many people think that there is lye-free soap out there. That is a total myth. All soap contains lye, which is also called sodium hydroxide. Without lye, soap would just be a mess of oil and water,” Rubins notes.

It has taken time and patience to perfect their methods. Since they began, the process has become more fluid, and the results have also improved. That’s when they decided to start selling the soap at community events, as well as through their website at hairyfarmpitgirls.com. 

The brand has been well received. So much so, in fact, that Rubins and Evitts are now turning out between 3,000 and 5,000 bars per month, and they have more than 300 varieties of scents.

“Luckily, we sell a lot of soap because soap making is an absolutely addictive activity. I often say that even if we didn’t sell soap, I would still make 1,000 bars a month because soap making is so fun and therapeutic,” Rubins says.

While they have 10 fragrances that are mainstays, the two are always experimenting. They enjoy creating small batches, making only 12 to 40 of one kind or another. “The possibilities are endless, and I find soap making to be an art. I often find myself dreaming of new soaps and new ones that I want to make,” Rubins says.

While the soaps are a primary part of what they do, it’s not the only thing that the Hairy Farmpit Girls offer. They believe in sharing their love of all-things-goat. While the farm itself isn’t open to the public, the duo gladly takes the herd on the road. The goats have gone to school events, nursing homes, offices, and homes.

They have even popped in for yoga at Pack Canine Studio on St. Simons Island and appeared for GoatGrams, where the brood surprises unsuspecting recipients. “GoatGrams are like a flower delivery but better because, instead of flowers, the recipients get a basket of our products as well as some time to play with a snuggly baby goat.”

At the end of the day, Rubins notes it’s all about sharing the love. And, of course, smiles tend to follow wherever the goats go. “People who know us crack up when they see us and say that there is always a goat peering out the window when we drive. We don’t like them to get windblown or stressed out, so the goats ride in the car just like a lap dog would,” Rubins says.

Source:  Golden Isles:  The Magazine for Brunswick, St Simons Island. Jekyll, & Sea Island, “Got Goats Milk”  by:  Lindsey Adkison

Magnificent live oaks stand guard at Musgrove, where the passage of time has slowed down. The land enchants with the moss-draped canopy along the banks of the swift flowing tributary that flows into the ocean just at the horizon. Now, its serene and breathtaking vistas will soon be viewed by many islanders as Musgrove enters a new chapter in its rich history.

For 80 years, the St. Simons Island property has been a much-loved — and very private — family compound. Purchased by R.J. Reynolds-heir Nancy Susan Reynolds in 1938, it was named Musgrove Plantation in honor of Mary Musgrove, a woman of both Native American and Caucasian heritage who served as an interpreter and negotiator for the early Georgia settlers.

This summer, descendants of Nancy Susan Reynolds completed a three-phase sale for 258 of Musgrove’s 465 acres to the St. Simons Land Trust, with the family and its Brenn Foundation retaining the remainder.

The forested tracts will be protected in perpetuity, and during the next six to 12 months, the Land Trust will begin opening sections of the land to the public. In addition to providing hiking and biking trails and other outdoor activities, the property will stand as a gateway to the wilderness corridor along Lawrence Road and parallel to the Hampton Spur bike trail on the north end of the island.

In celebration of this new phase, we invited members of the community to speak about their memories of Musgrove, its role in Georgia’s history, and the joy they have as new beginnings unfold.

A kids’ paradise

Nicole Bagley has fond memories of roaming the woods and creek side of Musgrove. “I grew up coming here,” she says. “We kids were always out on the creek or the dock, exploring the property, playing hide and seek, swinging on swings. We were just all around the place!”

Bagley’s late father, Smith W. Bagley, was three years old when his mother, Nancy Susan Reynolds, bought the property. He, too, grew up playing in the woods and water at Musgrove, just as his children did and just as his grandchildren are doing this summer. “It’s a kids’ paradise,” says Nicole Bagley, who is also the Brenn Foundation president. She says her grandmother “would be incredibly proud of what we’re doing here, opening up the property to the public.” Her grandmother was always proud of her gardens and of preserving the land that has been on the Christ Church Tour of Homes for 50 years.

“This is an exciting time for the Brenn Foundation, with this land being preserved and the public being able to enjoy it,” Bagley says. “I couldn’t think of better partners than the St. Simons Land Trust.”

A protected environment

Susan Shipman, a marine scientist and the former director of Coastal Resources at the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, has lived on St. Simons for 40 years. She knows how Musgrove is ecologically connected to the Altamaha Delta, which is recognized as one of the most biologically rich ecosystems in the world.

“This diverse habitat comprises mature maritime forests, upland pine flatwoods, and rare freshwater wetlands. What’s especially notable is the two important and declining coastal wetland communities: the Red maple-tupelo maritime swamp forest and the wet pond pine flatwoods. To have both pond pine wetlands and mature maritime forest on the same island is very rare. The two are found together on only two other barrier islands: Cumberland and Sapelo,” she explains.

In addition, the marsh at Musgrove “performs invaluable services such as reducing storm surge impacts to adjacent uplands; minimizing erosion; and supporting essential habitat for fisheries, manatees, and threatened and endangered species, such as wood storks.”

A hiking wonderland

Frances Zwenig, an East Beach resident, has numerous memories of Musgrove, including an oyster roast hosted by her friend Smith Bagley and featuring a performance by the Sea Island Singers.

Zwenig says that when the opportunity presented itself to work with the Land Trust, Bagley’s children, and the Georgia Department of Natural Resources to “preserve Musgrove in all its natural beauty,” she immediately agreed. Her generous contribution was used to close on the third phase of the acquisition and will pay for the creation of a nature trail along the creek in memory of her late sister, Janet Gail Zwenig. “I look forward to the day we can cut the ribbon and have the trail enjoyed by Janet’s friends and co-workers from Harper’s Joy and the Fourth Street Training Center in Brunswick,” she says.  Janet’s Trail will be part of a network of low-impact hiking paths crisscrossing the property.

A coastal commitment

Beth and Tommy Holder have vacationed on the Georgia coast for years and now divide their time between the coast and their home in Atlanta. They have been generous supporters of the Land Trust for more than a decade. “We’re thrilled that the final phase of the Musgrove purchase has been completed,” Beth says. “What a wonderful benefit this protected maritime forest is — not only to St. Simons, but to the entire state. We are proud to have partnered with the Land Trust on its coastal conservation efforts and to be part of such an important legacy the community is leaving for future generations.”

A legacy of preservation

Wyche Fowler — former United States congressman and senator as well as former ambassador to Saudi Arabia — was a dear friend of Smith Bagley, and they spent many memorable moments together at Musgrove.

“Smith was a generous philanthropist who had a special concern for protecting our coastal environment. He demonstrated this at Musgrove, when it was his private preserve,” says Fowler, a part-time St. Simons resident. Bagley, who died in 2010, was chief executive of a cellphone company he founded in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. But he was equally dedicated to philanthropy and public affairs. “I know he’d be greatly pleased that much of his protectorate will now be part of the public’s pleasure.”

A secret garden

Gordon Strother, a lifelong resident of St. Simons, grew up knowing about the private compound at Musgrove. “I do remember one time, when my mom went out there. I went with her, and I walked the maze in the gardens. As a little kid, it was awesome. It was always this enchanting, mysterious, magical place.”

“Musgrove is about as old-St. Simons as you can get. What’s nice is that the property owners have worked with the Land Trust to preserve it. It’s nice that the locals will have access to it now,” says Strother, a third-generation islander who many know through the strong connection his family has to St. Simons. The family business, J.C. Strother Company, in the village is another island institution and has been passed to the fourth generation of Strothers to carry forward.

A presidential moment

Frank Moore was present at President- Elect Jimmy Carter’s first cabinet meeting, held at Musgrove in 1976. A Georgia native who has been living on St. Simons for the past seven years, Moore had been Carter’s chief of staff while Carter was governor before becoming deputy presidential campaign director and finance director and finally congressional liaison.

Moore remembers working late into the night at Musgrove as potential cabinet members were vetted and interviewed. “It was frantic, but also very organized and very serious.”

Almost overnight so much changed — including the Secret Service detail and the press. Through all the commotion, Moore says the Bagley family “was incredibly gracious and helpful to all of us.”

A destination for Georgians

Scott McQuade, executive director of the Golden Isles Convention and Visitors Bureau and St. Simons Land Trust board chairman, sees Musgrove as another destination for visitors to the area. “People are always looking for a place to hike and explore,” he says, “and we’re looking forward to giving them another option — especially one with new opportunities for healthy outdoor activity.”

Visitors and locals will be invited to walk, hike, run, cycle, fish, bird-watch, picnic, kayak, and learn about nature, and just generally enjoy the Golden Isles’ latest preserve that connects to the Altamaha River Corridor, which has been called by The Nature Conservancy as one of the 75 Last Great Places in America.

Source:  Golden Isles:  The Magazine for Brunswick, St Simons Island. Jekyll, & Sea Island, “Musings About Musgrove”  by:  Leslie Lamkin

Captured moments by photographers across the Golden Isles reveal what makes our small section of the Georgia coast so fabulous. These chosen photographs have been selected by an expert panel from more than 200 entries that capture the Golden Isles in stunning frames for the 2018 Golden Isles Photo Contest.

Amateur Gallery

Action winner,  Lynn Cates “Brunswick Carnival”

Finalists:

Darren Rodriguez “4th of July SSI Pier”

Shirley Robinson “Firefighters Working a Fire”

People winner, Robert Herrin “Trampoline Hair”

Finalists:

Richard Knight “Kids & Melons”

Stephanie Dixon “Birdman and His Flock”

Places winner, Stephanie Dixon “Fly Me to the Moon”

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Finalists:

Steve Kendall “Milky Way over Jekyll”

Gena Churchwell “Piping Down the Sun”

Wildlife winner, Jennifer Hatcher “Ghost Crab”

Finalists:

Steve Kendall “Heron Playtime”

Steve Kendall “Hummingbird Visitor”

Professional Gallery

Action winner, Ann Nermoe “Gullah Geeche Ring Shouters”

Finalist:

William Aspinwall “Finding the Note”

People winner, William Aspinwall “Leaves”

Finalists:

Harlan Hambright “Jorge”

Paul Meacham “Watch Night”

Places winner, Peal Meacham “Reflections of Darien”

Finalists:

Ann Nermoe “Sunset Walk on Beach”

Duke Smith “Morning Stillness”

Wildlife winner, William Aspinwall “Mother Egret”

Source:  Golden Isles:  The Magazine for Brunswick, St Simons Island. Jekyll, & Sea Island.

Get the lowdown on the best places to visit, eat, and enjoy the Golden Isles according to some of the locals who know.

Michael Hulett, musician who has lived in the Golden Isles for 33 years

What makes our area unique? “It’s one of the most beautiful areas in the nation with beautiful islands, great seafood — especially the shrimp — and a rich history. Kind, friendly people make it all the better.”

Where do you like to take visitors? “Jekyll Island and have a picnic on the porch of Goodyear Cottage.”

Millie Wilcox, former gallery owner, model, and artist

Where is the best spot for a bite to eat?“At my house for Shrimp Creole: okra, corn, tomatoes, shrimp, black pepper, bay leaf, lemon with Louisiana rice — all fresh ingredients.”

What is your favorite time of year? “April is my favorite time of year because of the exquisite coloration of the flora and fauna, the green of the Spartina, and the magical fragrance that fills the air as well as my soul.”

How long have you lived here? “I have lived on St. Simons for 50 years, but I have been visiting since I was two years old. Here, I met my husband, who was a transplanted Yankee and who said he would never live anywhere but in the Golden Isles.”

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “Incredible beauty and diversity because of its pristine stretches of beach, sparkling estuaries, and abundant wildlife. It is also a haven for nature lovers, artists, poets, historians, and writers, who appreciate the abundance of creativity and warm hospitality found in the Golden Isles.”

Brooks Good, a 34-year local who operates Coastal Outdoor Adventures

Favorite time of year here? “Definitely the fall. After enduring the heat of summer, the thought of those first few cool days in October hang out there like a carrot. As an avid outdoorsman, there is no better time to be on the coast than the fall. The fishing and hunting are great, and the temperature is comfortable to do just about anything outside. And, who doesn’t love the fact that you can combine all of those activities with a football game. Go DAWGS! The hardest part about the fall is deciding what activity you want to do.”

What activity do you take visitors to do? “Running a charter boat business, I get the opportunity to take large numbers of visitors out on the water each year. The beauty of our coast — along with the abundance and diversity of marine and wildlife — make this area very unique. Dolphins, birds, fish, alligators, and the beauty of our coastal marshlands are what make this place great, and it is a pleasure to get to share it with others. Seeing our coast through the eyes of visitors and hearing their comments reminds me on a daily basis just what a special place it is to both visit and to live.”

Michael Gowen, co-owner of Southeast Adventure Outfitters who grew up in Brunswick and lives on St. Simons Island

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “A maze of intricate waterways, expansive views, rich history, and beautiful landscapes.”

Favorite time of year? “Strangely enough, the cooler months. Big blue high pressure skies, cooler air, no bugs, the perfect time for exploring the woods, swamps, and islands.”

What activity do you take visitors to do when they visit? “Let’s go boating! Or fishing or paddling, hiking, or all of the above — primarily in the marshes, islands, beaches, or swamps.”

 

Susan Bates, owner of Tipsy McSways

How long have you lived in Glynn County? “I graduated from Glynn Academy, moved back in the ’80s for a few years, and then moved back in 2001. I’ve been here ever since.”

Favorite time of year here? “Spring is my favorite time of year. Nothing smells better than soft jasmine filling the air during an April sunset in the Golden Isles. It is totally intoxicating.”

 

Cornell Harvey, mayor of Brunswick

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “I describe our community as Brunswick and the Golden Isles, whereby we have many things to offer visitors such as a historic downtown, the islands with their beautiful beaches, lots of restaurants with different cuisines, and a southern charm welcoming all to come coast awhile with us.”

How long have you lived here? “I have lived in Brunswick for nearly 60 years. However, I was in the U.S. Air Force and also lived in other countries such as Japan, Taiwan, and Germany over a 29-year career.

What makes our area unique? “We are unique because of being a small coastal community with a large retirement population perfectly situated between Savannah and Jacksonville; daily flights to Atlanta; a deep water port; Interstate exchanges and rail access, all linking Brunswick and the Golden Isles internationally to world.”

 

Eric Friedrich Jr., president of FirstLight Home Care of Southeast Georgia

Favorite time of year here and why?“My favorite time of year here has to be Georgia-Florida weekend. It takes me back to the good old college days and brings back so many fond memories of my time in Athens. On top of that, the weather is starting to cool down,

andeveryone just seems to be happy.”

What activity do you take visitors come to visit? “My favorite thing to do … is to take them on an evening boat ride to watch the sunset over the marsh and the rivers. I think the natural beauty of this area is the most impressive thing to show off to visitors, and for me, it never gets old or any less impressive.”

Rebecca Gould Strother, realtor with Duckworth Properties

How long have you lived in Glynn County? “I’m proud to say that I’m a native to the area. My family has lived on St. Simons for generations; and my husband Bug — another island native — and I plan to keep that tradition going.”

Where do you take visitors to? “I take everyone to The Stables at Frederica, even if they do not want to ride. Just visiting with the horses seems to be a huge highlight to everyone’s visit.”

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “The Golden Isles is a great place for anyone wanting that instant feel of community. Our area offers so many activities and events that bring us all together. You start recognizing the same smiling faces, even after just a few outings.”

 

Cathie Parmelee, artist and fourth-generation local

What makes our area unique? “When I drive across the causeway onto the island, there’s a feeling of coming home, at least that’s how I feel. It makes me feel special and loved, and I think that must be the same way it makes others feel. It’s like the island gives you a big hug and whispers in your ear ‘Welcome home.’”

Best place for a good bite to eat? “My house is where the best seafood cook lives — my man-chef. But I can’t have everyone over to my house, so here’s what I would do if your are visiting: charter a boat to go fishing. Most of the restaurants on the island will cook your catch. That’s as close to eating local fresh seafood as you can get!”

 

Erin Young Ferrell, 16-year resident

What is your favorite time of year here? “Definitely Fall! I of course love football season, not necessarily for the game, but for fun parties with friends; and all fall festivals and fun community activities such as the Shrimp & Grits Festival on Jekyll Island, Stewbilee in Brunswick, and so many more. Plus we host a huge Halloween party for our neighborhood and I look forward to that every year.”

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “I grew up in Orlando, and going from being in a big city to a small town was very tough at first; but now, as a mom, I love it! I think what I love the most about Brunswick and the Golden Isles is the strong sense of community that you just can’t get in a big city. I love that prayer, a strong sense of faith, and pride in our country is still alive and well in the Golden Isles.”

 

Jim Barger Jr., attorney and wildlife writer

How long have you lived in Glynn County? “I spent my entire childhood, from 1971 until I graduated from high school, in Glynn County — and then was back and forth at different times until my wife, Burch, who is also a Glynn County native, and I returned full time with our two boys in 2014.”

What activity do you take visitors to? “I always like to take people clamming if the weather is right because it is the most tactile and memorable way for them to connect with the Marshes of Glynn. They feel the oozing marsh mud with their feet and hands and smell it and ultimately taste it in the form of hot chowder or fritters.”

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “I’m tempted to say I wouldn’t describe it to non-locals at all — out of a selfish inclination to keep it to ourselves. But if pressed, I guess I would say that it is a little place, nestled within the deepest recess of the Georgia bite, where you can walk in the footsteps of ancient peoples, African slaves, and modern world leaders; and where the pace of life — despite advancing development and tourism — continues to be driven by the ebb and flow of the daily tides.”

 

Marjorie Gruber, 13-year resident

How long have you lived in Glynn County? “Since 2005. I was visiting my son, Renn Gruber and his lovely wife, Sibby, when on a Sunday afternoon in July 2005, they suggested I move from Fort Myers to the island. By the next day, Monday at 4:30 p.m., I had a signed contract to purchase a home in Bay Tree Cottages. So in a little over 24 hours, I made a major change and have never regretted the move.”

Where do you take visitors? “The Lighthouse, Coast Guard Station, the Coastal Georgia Historical Society, and Fort Frederica are certainly must-sees. Christ Church with its beautiful stained glass windows, courtyard, and cemetery brings history to the present, realizing the church dates back to the early 1800s.”

How would you describe the Golden Isles to non-locals? “The beauty of the tree canopy and plantings is without doubt a major attraction to the Island. The opportunity to golf, play tennis, walk beaches, swim, and visit historical sites all within an area of a few miles is a definite plus to visitors.”

 

Crawford Perkins, musician spotted around downtown Brunswick hotspots

How long have you lived in Glynn County? “I’ve been here since I was 9, moved to Nashville in 2002 and back in 2010. I’m a lifer.”

Where do you take visitors when they come to visit? “The pier area on the island is a great touristy place to take people. But I prefer to take them to Jekyll to see Millionaire’s Village. There are still dunes there, and it’s a much more relaxed atmosphere for dining and entertainment.”

Best place for a good bite to eat? “My favorite two places to eat are very different. For the atmosphere, I love Basil — the sushi and Thai food is second to none. For comfort food, you can’t beat Tipsy McSways — best burger in town and the overall vibe of it is welcoming to regulars and strangers.”

What makes our area unique? “I think the people of our area make this place unique. After traveling for a number of years and meeting so many great people, I can honestly say that I’ve never been anywhere that people are as inviting and warm as they are here, especially the downtown area. And that’s something that you can’t build or buy.”